I enjoy reading the food reviews in the Guardian and my eye was caught by a recent headline. As I am a sophisticated beastie, ‘Serves Fabulous Chips‘ was enough to draw me in to read about Toklas, a London restaurant. I have to say that would do it for me! Jay Rayner, the author of the review, had a word with the chef to find out how they were cooked. I wasn’t surprised to see that they were a version of Heston Blumenthal’s triple fried chips. I heard about these years ago and had a brainwave for using up leftovers as a consequence. I’ve been doing so ever since.
Whenever we are too stuffed to eat everything on our plate after a meal out we ask for what the French call ‘Le Doggy Bag’. This is maybe the finest example of Franglais known to man. There’s often fries in the mix. We’ll often over order on purpose when we get a takeaway. After all triple fried chips are a bit of a delicacy to look forward to as an accompaniment to another meal.
Now a cold chip is a nasty thing indeed. Perhaps the starch coagulates to make that dry offering which seems to suck the moisture from your mouth. But fear not! They can be revived. Most chips are cooked just twice before being served. My way of rescuing them mimics the third final fry in a posh restaurant.
I take the leftovers straight from the fridge and pop them into a frying pan that’s got a drizzle of rapeseed oil in it. No deep fat fryer is required. I just keep turning them in the pan until they get hot and crispy. It takes about ten minutes. Sure Heston and the chap at Toklas would probably give me a run for my money. They are proper professional chefs after all. But my triple fried chips are pretty delicious. And they’re a great way of using up leftovers that might have otherwise been chucked in the bin.